Back in 2008 when I first heard about Playa Chachalacas, I was excited to check it out. I always liked exploring places in México which are far removed from the commercialized touristy destinations.
From my research, I knew that none of the sand beaches located in the state of Veracruz has ever made it onto the top 10 list of México’s great beach destinations – or even on the top 50 list. But then again, I never took much stock in listening to the people or companies that create Top __ Lists of Places to Visit.
I had heard rumors from local folks in the city of Veracruz that there was something special which this beachside town had that could not be found anywhere else in this large Latin American country.
I’ll tell you about in a minute.
After figuring out how to get there by public transportation from the city of Veracruz, I discovered a laid-back coastal town of less than 700 inhabitants with a long and wide brown sand beach that merges with the warm waters of the Gulf of America (Gulf of México at that time) under a hot tropical sun.
I found out that on most weekdays, their beaches are sparse with only a few sun worshipers and some local families. On occasion, a bus load or two of Mexican senior folks would roll in for a half-day of beach relaxation and a meal of very fresh-out-of-the-Gulf seafood.
Ok, I’m going to be very dramatic in my next statement. Ready?
The seafood is so fresh here, you’ll swear it jumped out of the ocean and straight onto your plate.
Hey, how’s that for imaginative imagery?
I will talk more about the fresh seafood a little later in this article.
Because of this seaside town’s close proximity to the port city of Veracruz, Xalapa (Ha-la-pah) – the state’s capital city, and being less than 5 hours from some of the major cities in central México, its beaches on the weekends can be much more populated. When Mexican kids are out of school on holidays and on their summer break, it can really get hopping with families coming to take advantage of a seaside escape.
I Was Her First
Since my first time visiting Playa Chachalacas, I have returned many times. Maybe about 5 years ago on one of my visits, I decided to go have a seafood meal at one of the small no-frills beachside restaurants. It was a weekday evening and I was the only one there except for one other table with an older couple who were also enjoying the soft sound of the waves as a backdrop to a nice meal.
I was curious and so when the waitress walked over to my table in the sand to take my order, I asked her in Spanish how long she had been working there. “Nueve años” (9 years) she told me in her language. I then asked her if in those 9 years, had she seen many extrañjeros/foreigners who had come to eat there? She looked at me and said, “Eres el primero”/“You are the first.”
Wow! I did not expect that answer! She had just told me that I was her very first non-Latino customer in the entire 9 years she had been working there!
So it stands to reason that if you’re the kind of adventurous traveler (like me) who likes places that feel authentic, unpolished, and unknown to the outside world – Playa Chachalacas is worth a visit.
Ok, now I’ll tell you about what this small seaside town has that no other Mexican seaside town has.
An Incredible Desert Oasis in a Tropical Setting
At first glance to new visitors, upon entering its small center of town, tropical Playa Chachalacas looks like a sleepy seaside village. On the other side of town, you encounter the wide beach which stretches north for about a mile with gentle waves lapping against the sand. A big river runs alongside the town and its wide mouth flows directly into the Gulf making it a safe haven for fishermen to dock their boats at night.
However, what sets this small laid back beach town apart from all the other small laid back Mexican beach towns is what lies north of this village. Just beyond the main beach area is a massive series of very tall sand dunes. In some spots, they actually come right down to the water’s edge. This enormous sea of sand dunes comprise a whopping 1,360 acres (550 hectares).
These dunes stretch for miles and without a local guide, you could actually get lost inside this vast Sahara-like setting.
The Dunas de Chachalacas rise like golden waves frozen in time and sculpted by the wind into rippling patterns that shift with the seasons.
Sandboarding and Off-Road ATV Adventures
The dunes aren’t just for admiring—they’re for conquering.
If you’ve ever wanted to try sandboarding, Playa Chachalacas is one of the best places in México to do it. It’s like snowboarding, but instead of cold powder, you’re sliding down sun-warmed sand.
If speed is more your thing – You can hop on an ATV and rip up and over these very tall dunes on a guided tour. There are small outfits on the beach that just rent less powerful ATVs and then let you go on your own. I would strongly advise you not to rent one by yourself. Without proper instructions and without knowledge of where to go and how to maneuver through these dunes, you could have an accident.
The first time I drove up to the precipice of one of these tall dunes on a guided ATV tour and looked down at the very steep incline, I thought, “No F#%@ing Way!” But with the skillful directions and encouragement from our guide, I and the others in our small adventurous group DID IT!
Once at the bottom, I was so pumped!
We all were!
I think we all felt like we could conquer the world.
What a rush!
Check out this ATV Sand Dunes Ride video.
Veracruz-Style Seafood and Local Flavors
The state of Veracruz is famous for its seafood and Playa Chachalacas delivers. Local beachfront restaurants serve up pescado a la veracruzana (fish cooked in a savory tomato, olive, and caper sauce), tostadas de mariscos (crisp tortillas piled high with fresh seafood), and pulpo enamorado (a creamy octopus dish that’s as rich as its name suggests).
My personal favorite is a plate of camarones empanizados – breaded fried shrimp with a side of rice, plantains and an ice-cold beer. I love sitting under a palapa, toes in the sand, watching the waves roll in and kids playing in the shallow water – all while enjoying a great freshly-caught and prepared seafood meal.
A Town that Feels Like México
What I also like about Playa Chachalacas is that it still feels like México. It’s not overrun with expensive resorts, and pesky foreign tourists. As I mentioned before, on most days, the beaches are relatively empty. You may just see a few folks on ATVs zipping down this very long beach, families gathered under umbrellas for shade, and some Mexican national visitors frolicking in the waves.
On the weekdays, this is the kind of place where you can slow down, soak in the sun, and experience a side of México that feels refreshingly real.
The weekends can be more crowded – more noisy with Latin music playing, more ATVs traversing the beach, some vendors selling beach items, and the ambient sounds of people having fun with their friends and family.
Whether you come for a playful day at the beach, an exciting ATV and sandboarding tour in the sea of dunes, or just a peaceful escape by the sea, Playa Chachalacas is a destination that rewards those who seek it out.
Travel Tips for Playa Chachalacas
- Getting There: Playa Chachalacas is about a 45-minute drive from Veracruz city. If you’re flying in, the closest airport is General Heriberto Jara International Airport (VER).
Note: There are no buses from the city of Veracruz that go directly to Playa Chachalacas. You can take a bus to the town of Cardel and then take a taxi to “La Playa.” The taxi is about a 20 minute ride to the beach from Cardel. So yes, it’s inconveniently located for those without a car. - Best Time to Visit: The dry season (November to April) offers the best weather.
- Where to Stay: There are a few small hotels but don’t expect big resorts. Remember, this is a low-key destination. That being said, there is one hotel that is very nice – close to 5 stars. It’s called, Artisan Family Hotels and Resort Collection Playa Esmeralda. All the rest are what I would call, clean, comfortable, and inexpensive.
- What to Bring: Sunscreen, sunglasses, and a sense of adventure. If you plan on hitting the dunes, wear a long-sleeve shirt to shield your arms from the hot sun.
- Bring Shoes or Sandals: On hot tropical sunny days these brown sand beaches absorb the heat and can make the sand incredibly hot. On these kinds of days, take my word for it – your bare feet will burn on the sand if you don’t wear shoes.
- Bring Mexican Pesos: Some restaurants and hotels may not accept credit cards. Many do but having cash in pesos is a good security blanket in case they don’t. Also, you may not find an ATM in town or by the beach, so don’t expect to get some pesos after you arrive in “la playa.” Come prepared with pesos already in your wallet.
- Want to sign up for a 2 hour ATV sand dunes adventure ride and/or a Sandboarding experience? I can assist you. I have a contact in Playa Chachalacas who speaks English. Arrangements can also be made for pickup from the city of Veracruz. Email me – mike@mexicovacationtours.com
So, if you’re looking for a different kind of beach town – one where adventure and great seafood come together in an unpretentious authentic México setting – Playa Chachalacas in Veracruz is calling.
Here is a video I made about this town. It also includes a chat with my friend who lives there. Find it Here.
México is filled with interesting places to enjoy – if you know where to look.
About the Author
Mike Vondruska is the founder and director of tour operations for Go Now Adventures LLC. He and his team specialize in creating expert-guided small group multi-day tours for curious and adventurous travelers to explore the country of Mexico.
Mike’s tour company is registered in the United States and also has an office near the city of Pachuca in the Mexico state of Hidalgo. You can find his tours and more information at MexicoVacationTours.com
